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Saturday, September 26, 2015

Rainbow Poncho

Rainbow Poncho pattern








































One size fits most
One square cca 20cm x 20cm (8”x8”)

You need: (for this size poncho)
I used 400g (1240 meters) of 60% cotton / 40% acrylic baby yarn (17 different colors)
Crochet hook G/4mm
Yarn Needle, marker

Terms/Abbreviations: I used US terminology
ch     chain
slst.   slip stitch
sc      single crochet
dc     double crochet
st      stitch

Squares:
At first you need to make 16 squares, each a different color.
I used “Lemonade swirl granny square”. I made 10 rounds which gave me cca 20cm x 20cm (8”x8”) square.
You can use any square you like. This one just suited my purposes.




























Joining the squares:
I crocheted round 11 using /2dc’s – ch1/ in ch spaces from previous round and /3dc’s - ch3 – 3dc’s/ in the corners.
I was joining the squares as I went along (detail on the pictures).




























Edging neckline:
I made /2dc’s – ch3 – slst. in second dc/ in every ch space from previous round (detail on the pictures).


























Edging at the bottom:
I crocheted one big row/round of /2dc’s – ch1/ in ch spaces from previous row and /3dc’s - ch3 – 3dc’s/ in two corners.
To finish the bottom edge of, I crocheted the bubble edge: ch8 – 3dc’s together into the 3rd ch from the hook – ch3 - slst. into the same ch – ch5 – skip one ch space – sc into next ch space (detail on the picture).

























And there it is - a soft yet very noticeable poncho. Simple to make, with many variations and the pattern is suitable for dedicated beginner as well.
If you come up with any problems or difficulties, write to me, and I’ll be more than happy to help.






































Have a nice week
Clara

Sunday, September 20, 2015

Soft shawl with bobbles

Last week I was working on and finishing two projects.
First was this soft shawl/scarf with bobbles.
It’s based on this pattern: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/eyelet-lace-shawlette
I put together a little bit extended version, using knitting and crocheting as well.

Soft shawl with bobbles- pattern








































Size 160cm x 90cm (cca 64’’ x 36’’) 

You need: (for this size shawl)
I used 200g of soft acrylic baby yarn suitable for E/3,5 mm hook, but I used a little bit bigger crochet hook and knitting needles than suggested – 4,5mm, as it made the shawl fluffier.
Yarn Needle, marker

Terms/Abbreviations for crocheting: I used US terminology
ch    chain 
slst   slip stitch
sc     single crochet
dc    double crochet 
st     stitch 
beg   beginning

Shawl:
For the initial shawl I followed pattern you’ll find here:
It’s very easy to follow. Even though I am a knitting beginner only, I did manage it without any problems.
Your shawl can be as big or small, as you like, by adjusting the amount of rows.
I finished with row 7 of the pattern – I was knitting and finishing (binding) at the same time. I didn’t make the picot edge from this original pattern.


























Edging:
I decided to finish the shawl with bubbles.
It goes like this: *sc, ch3-2dc’s together, ch3, slst. into same sc, sc into following 4 stitches* and repeat **. I had to improvise at the bottom by dropping some sc’s between bubbles.

























You might like to use another version of bubbles. I made edging like that before on “Simple blue shawl”.
***************************************************************

Second project I finished was this grey cardigan. The blue one I made a while ago. For both of them I used the free pattern I found here. It’s fantastic pattern and very easy to follow. Both of the cardigans are made to order but I have a serious plan to make one for myself as well.




























Have a nice week
Clara

Saturday, September 12, 2015

Autumn purse

Autumn purse / crossbody bag tutorial


















Size: 35cm x 37cm (14” x 15”)

You need: 
Acrylic yarn or cotton of your choice (I used cca 300 grams – 0.660 lbs. / 880 meters – 960 yds.) 
The Crochet hook suggested for your material – I used E/3,5mm
Yarn Needle 
Around 45cm x 90cm (18” x 36”) off cotton for the lining (you don’t have to use cotton)
30 cm (12”) zipper
A4 plastic wallet for the straightening of the purse bottom
1,5 meters long (60”) by 3cm wide (1,2”) handle piece
Buttons (17 for this bag)

Terms/Abbreviations: I used US terminology
ch       chain 
slst      slip stitch
sc       single stitch
dc       double crochet 
st        stitch 

Bottom of the purse:
Start with the bottom of the purse. It is worked in circular (oval in this case) crochet method, beginning at center of the oval. Slipstitch join at end of each round. Don’t turn, but continue in same direction.
Begin by crocheting a chain of 47 + 4 stitches (count as a dc on start of each round) (51 chains all together).

Round 1: Double crochet (dc) into the 4th chain (ch) from the hook, dc into the same stitch. Make dc into each 45 ch, 5 dc into 46th (last) ch stitch. Do not turn - keep going around and make dc into each 45 ch, 2 dc into the last stitch (it’s the stitch where you have 3 dc already). Slip stitch (slst.) to finish the round. (100 dc all around). You need 6 markers now- it’ll make your work easier. Put each marker to the 2nd, 3rd and 4th dc out of 5dc group on each side. (Red dots on the picture indicates where you put the markers as you go). Do not turn.
Round 2: Chain 4 (replace the marker to the 4th ch from row below), work dc into the same stitch. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), make dc into each of 47 dc, 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc – this is the side of your purses bottom as well), 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), make dc into each of 47 dc, 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc into the last stitch (it’s the stitch where you have 2 dc already). Slip stitch (slst.) to finish the round. (112 dc all around).
Round 3: Chain 4 (replace the marker to the 4th ch from row below), work dc into the same stitch. Dc in following 2 stitches. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), make dc into each of 49 dc, 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc in following 2 stitches. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc in following 2 stitches. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), make dc into each of 49 dc, 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc in following 2 stitches, dc into the last stitch (it’s the stitch where you have 2 dc already). Slip stitch (slst.) to finish the round. (124 dc all around).
Round 4: Chain 4 (replace the marker to the 4th ch from row below), work dc into the same stitch. Dc in following 4 stitches. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), make dc into each of 51 dc, 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc in following 4 stitches. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc in following 4 stitches. 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), make dc into each of 51 dc, 3dc into next stitch (replace the marker from row below to the middle dc), dc in following 4 stitches, dc into the last stitch (it’s the stitch where you have 2 dc already). Slip stitch (slst.) to finish the round. (136 dc all around).

I ended the bottom here but you can do a row or two more for bigger purse or row or two less for smaller one. It’s really up to you.

For straightening the bottom of the purse use the tutorial you will find here:
http://emmhouse21.blogspot.cz/2015/03/white-purse-or-market-bag.html

Body of the purse:
Work in rounds. Sc into every dc from the bottom of the purse (136sc’s). At the end of each row, slst. to finish the round. Ch 1 to start every next round. I used single crochet (sc) for the body of my purse. I think you can use a half double crochet (hdc), a double crochet (dc) or any crochet stitches you like.

I can’t remember exactly how many rounds I did. It doesn’t really matter. I finished when the body measured cca 37cm (15”) high. Again, you can make your purse smaller or bigger by adding or reducing the number of rows. Fasten off.

Flowers:
I used a very simple flower I found on the net. I don’t know who came up with the pattern for this flower first. There are so many practically identical free patterns available.
Round 1: MR, ch1, 5sc’s into the ring, slst. into first ch1.
Round 2: *ch3, 3 dc’s together into same stitch, ch3, slst. into the same stitch, slst. into next stitch* repeat 5 times, fasten off.
Sew the flowers on the purse the way you would like it or the way you can see it on my purse. I put a button in the center of each flower.


























Lining, handle, zipper:
I put a lining in the purse.  I sewed it in by hand, to the second last round of the purse’s body. I suppose, you can sew the lining by machine. I’m adding zippers to most of my purses. I added an adjustable handle as well. I like crossbody bags or purses very much – It leaves me with a free hand. Priceless with little kids.  


There it is. You should have nice purse now, or an inspiration for one at least.
I hope you understand, but if you come up with any problems or difficulties, write to me, and I’ll be more than happy to help.







































Have a nice week
Clara 

Tuesday, September 1, 2015

Pineapple wall clock

Today I prepared for you a tutorial for the pineapple-hanging clock.


Round pineapple wall clock tutorial



























Size - diameter 30cm (12”)

You need: 
Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet (size 10) cotton, but any kind of cotton, acrylic or silk will do just fine as long as it has the same thickness. I used cca 150 meters.
Crochet hook 1.25mm
Tapestry needle
Wall clock kit 12" (30cm) – you can find these on Etsy
White acrylic paint (optional)
Glue suitable for paper or fabric (I used decoupage glue)
Clear vanish

Clock:
-First I crocheted the pineapple doily.
Pattern notes: The doily is worked in circular crochet method, beginning at center of the circle. Slip stitch join at the end of each round. Don’t turn, but continue in same direction. I used free written pattern for doily I found here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pineapple-plumes-doily
Just follow the pattern, but before you’ll start round one don’t crochet ch4 and slip stitch. Make magic ring instead. It will be easier to adjust the doily around the clock mechanism in future.
-Put the doily into the starch and iron it when dry. That will give the doily a nice shape, and it will make it easier to glue it on the clock base.






-I painted the wooden base of the clock with white acrylic color. That’s optional. I did it because it made the beige/brown doily stand out more.











-After, I put a generous amount of clear decoupage glue on the white base and pressed the doily onto it. Make sure each pineapple is in the right position before the glue dries. Make sure it dries right through.










-I put two layers of clear vanish over it. Leave enough time between the two coats of varnish as written in the instructions. It will secure the doily, as well as protecting it from the dust.






 






-When it is totally dry, attach the clock mechanism to it and hang it on the wall.










A doily doesn’t only have to be a place mat. This is just another way to show you how the pineapple pattern can be used.


























Have a nice week
Clara